November 5, 2007
Retailers Try to Figure Out What Older Women Want
What does a woman want? More specifically, what do women 35 and older want?
Consumers in this demographic want to feel as though they are getting special attention, but they don’t want to shop in stores that are for older women, according to a Wall Street Journal article. The piece points out that a number of chains, including Gap Inc.’s Forth & Towne and Gymboree’s Janesville, failed, at least in part, because women perceived the stores as being for older women.
Part of the difficulty in reaching this consumer base is that it is not a single group.
“I don’t know of any consumer group that crosses so many price ranges and designs,” Sue Rolontz, executive vice president of Tobe Report, told The Journal.
Michael Fink, women’s fashion director at Saks Fifth Avenue, says the same item may work for women with considerable difference in ages. Mr. Fink pointed to “sexy tops” the store sells that women of all ages are wearing.
Bloomingdale’s is looking to address the issue of reaching older female consumers with its Quotation department. The store has developed the area of the store to look like a boutique offering clothes that appeal to both older boomer women as well as those in their twenties.
Instead of the traditional configuration matching merchandise to form outfits, Quotation merchandises all blouses together in a single area, along with jeans, jackets, etc.
Discussion Questions: Based on recent experience, does it make sense for retailers to develop stores or even departments specifically targeted to women 35+? Are women in the forties interested in wearing the same clothing as their twenty-something counterparts?
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I would add that 9 West sportswear does a nice job of filling this need for part of this demographic. Their styles are updated and stylish without (usually) being too far out there for the more fashion oriented of the group. Their fit is a bit more forgiving and their bottoms have what I call a “mommy rise” which doesn’t come up to your armpits but still keep the necessary parts covered even when you are bending or stretching.
As others have mentioned, there isn’t a one size fits all answer, but more brands like this, perhaps at different price points and some that were a bit more traditional would be a good start.
As others have pointed out, there is no single “over 35” demographic, so any singular approach is doomed to fail, all the faster if the approach is defined as targeting actual over 35 women. It’s a case of segmentation and like any successful retail segmentation, it has to be on the basis of feel, attitude and lifestyle.
The challenge for corporate retail is simply that any segment may not be able to generate the volume to justify the investment in square footage and inventory. The good news is that this demographic has been so underserved that customers are likely prepared to pay full retails for compelling assortments that capture their imagination.
Not that we need one more woman 35+ chiming in but I will anyhow. The whole title of this post “older women” kind of gets under my skin. My mother may qualify as an “older woman” but I don’t. To that point, I have tried to shop both Chico’s and Forth & Towne (when its test stores were here in Chicago) but everything was cut for someone much broader than I am; it all looked frumpy as a result and in many cases wasn’t worth the prices tag. I think the industry’s problem with “older women” may be that we’re not easily fooled, we’re not as impulsive as we were in our 20s and we’re more secure with who we are and what we look like. Find a way to dress me well without making me feel old or making me look like my mother (no offense, mom) and I’ll be happy to do business with you. Walking into a special store screams “I’m old”–give me choices in existing venues–don’t make a lady tell her age.
It is interesting how many retailers are trying to find that magic demographic niche that “no one is catering enough” to. Every time someone says they found an under served niche, two things come to mind. First, markets are usually efficient, so if no one else has focused on this niche, there may be a reason. Second, if you see what you perceive to be a demographic cluster, is it really a homogeneous cluster? Maybe you are trying to find common themes in a very diverse group or maybe there is a better way to segment female consumers than just age? Makes me think of Rubik’s Cube–it is easier to focus on getting one or two sides right–rather than focus on all dimensions simultaneously–that would get you to real success.
The problem for many women over 35 is the endless amount of time it takes to find what is fashionable and what fits well for various end-use occasions. That is why Chico’s started so strong, they did well in meeting needs across a variety of fits and usage occasions. You could walk in and get “outfits” for dress-up, work travel and casual events. But women get bored quickly and Chico’s didn’t change the basic model of “looks” they offered, so even many loyal stockholders I know (me included) became less loyal over time.
Keeping up with boomers–such a large, non-homogeneous group of women–is a no-win situation in more than just fashion (ask any man!), but many brands could do more to make their “fit” information more visible on hangtags, etc. At the end of the day, a flattering fit is what has to be right to get many women to buy, so wherever we go, help us understand that quickly.
It is entirely appropriate to have stores or departments that focus on the needs of mature women. It’s called market segmentation and it is a basic tool of retailing. The issue is not whether to market to this group; it is how to best market to them.
Anyone who has ever marketed to kids knows you don’t position products to the age group. You position them to the group they emulate or aspire to be. For example, to market to pre-teens, you often position to teens.
The problem with marketing to mature women (or mature men) is they don’t want to be reminded of their age. Rather, they want age appropriate products that are positioned to make them feel good about themselves.
Laura is right on the money here. This is another one in the favorite series of RetailWire questions that ask something like, “Is it appropriate to treat all (fill in the blanks–gays, Hispanics, men, etc,) as though they were all alike?” The answer (once again) is, “No.” The reason is also the same. As Laura points out, people are different despite the fact that they happen to fall into a certain demographic cohort.
Another agreement with Laura’s comment. The baby boom population is so vast in scope that you need to subdivide it based on psychographics, demographics, climate differences, and so on. The customer for whom “50 is the new 30” (in her mindset, at least) is going to be attracted to a different kind of store experience, fit and trend position compared to a more classic customer with different needs. Add the element of end-use (career vs. casual vs. “weekend wear”) and it becomes even more difficult to stereotype baby boomers as “one style fits all.”
Chico’s was $21/share a year ago. Today it’s less than $13, a 38% decline. Chico’s core customers are women over 35. Yes, women over 35 often say that retailers don’t have appropriate clothes for their age group. But it’s hard to convince retail executives to cater to a segment with disappointing profits. Is this a chicken/egg situation (in other words, would Chico’s be a winner if the styles were better?) Or should retailers de-emphasize difficult businesses? Certain other market segments seem easier right now.
Having gone to my 20 year high school reunion last year, this is no surprise. We were all VERY different 38 year olds and I can’t imagine trying to hit us all with one blanket strategy!
Some women are interested in staying on the bleeding edge of trends and some are not. It’s about personality and personal style. In my opinion, retailers shouldn’t over think this. Focus on the fashion and manifest the retail store experience according to the brand. Women know who they are and what they want and will actively seek out the retail venues that connect with their preferences accordingly.
The secret here is not exclusive to the fashion business. Success in any retail business comes down to getting the right product to the right consumer.
The “store-within-a-store” concept works well when it’s targeted to the right consumer, and not blanketed across the entire chain. Some stores will succeed when the merchandise is integrated with the core merchandise, some will succeed within their own specialty department, and others should be removed completely from some stores.
Identify your target market. Test your theory in a few stores. Roll out what works. It doesn’t matter if it’s fashion or air fresheners.
That’s me, you see over there, standing up next to Laura. We are all different in our tastes and the way we spend our time and money. And our own perceptions of how we look in the styles that we like and that feel comfortable. Let’s hear it for choice. Clothes are about the wearer, not the viewer. Like women of all ages, shapes and sizes, we want the freedom to shop where we like and wear what we like without being steered towards age appropriate choices made by someone else on our behalf.
I think they may not be breaking the demographics in the right places. In my experience, there’s a group that’s 18-24 or so, with a college/casual/clubbing lifestyle; then a “young career” group that runs roughly 25-40, which needs work-appropriate but still stylish clothes and still wants young-looking styles for leisure, albeit sometimes ones with a little more coverage and less extreme styling. With people marrying and having kids later, women in their 30s often have more in common with women in their late 20s than women in their 50s.
If Mrs. Scanner read this article, I know what she would say. Well, knowing that sounds a bit presumptuous, I’ve heard it too many times. She would comment that there is very little in between to be found. Even when the fashion may be directed to those of her own age, the cuts are not.
In just one example, from last Christmas, I intended to give her jeans and sweaters. The sweaters–no challenge at all. The jeans–nearly impossible. In the end, a gift card resulted in frustration for her and the least ‘unacceptable’ jeans possible. I can’t claim to understand, but I can claim to hear. While I thought it was impossible to purchase them for her, she found it no less possible to find a pair that were not cut to show off a pierced navel or as my daughter refers to it, a ‘tramp stamp’.
Offering a somewhat classic style in ‘reasonable’ cuts my be a great start for any woman’s clothier. That being said, I’ll beg for forgiveness from Mrs. Scanner later.
My best friend, (boomer), her twenty-something daughter and I spent a glorious afternoon shopping together in the same contiguous departments and brands at Nordstrom’s this weekend. Sure, we chose different things to try on, but they were OUR choices of what we wanted to look like and buy, not some merchandise manager’s idea of what gals in our respective demographics should try on.
I am with Laura. I am over 35 years old but my tastes are elegant & trendy. We have all differences in taste, style. I would not go in a store just because they sell clothes for women 35 and older. Sometimes I prefer not to go to stores that sells within certain age group. I go for the style I want and looks great on me, or I go to store that sells various brands and styles.
I agree with many of my fellow panelists, with one exception. What older women want is youth! They do not want to be special, but instead simply want to feel, look and enjoy how they did when they were younger. This is not a question of target market differentiation, but instead recognition that youth drives our marketing savvy and aligning ourselves to this in different iterations so that older women feel younger, while younger women feel more mature. This is the secret sauce that all retailers need to recognize when they establish their presence and appeal to this market.
Any female over 35 is an “older woman”! Wow! Women in their 30s who are part of Gen Y and women who are Baby Boomers do not necessarily wear the same clothes! Women who are working full time in professional jobs don’t need the same clothes as women who work for a company requiring a uniform. Women wanting leisure clothes who live in the northern climates where it snows don’t look for the same leisure clothes as those who live in the Southeast or Southwest. Those who travel for leisure may need to buy bathing suits at any time of the year no matter where they live (not just spring and summer). Trying to classify all women over 35 as older looking for the same type of clothes is folly!
Ditto to all the above comments and two pieces of advice for retailers:
1) Stop thinking about over 35 as “older”. Not just because I’m a day or two past 35, but because the demographics matter only a little. Across retail formats, attitudes trump demographics more and more every day.
2) Remember the spending power of women over 35. Yes, we buy fewer clothes than our 20-something sisters. But that clothing is higher priced, higher margin and more predictable. We are where the money is–for those retailers and manufacturers who understand and successfully address our diverse attitudes.
I want trained sales staff who have been educated in business etiquette and understand that the use of “honey”; “that is slimming”; or “be right with you” is so incredibly offensive.
I’ve found that the retail store who does the best job of training its younger staff to be great sales individuals is Nordstroms. Positioned in the higher end divisions, they are consistently polite, they ask great questions, offer wonderful advice and dress well.
Retail is definitely reflecting the status of our global community. Cheap, smaller sizes for the junior age or expensive, nice fitting goods for those of us over 35. Also, retail continues to be a commodity versus an event. Give me the days of nice sales personnel, good products, and the offer of a cup of tea or coffee and a place to sit and browse specialty fashion magazines.
Our choice, our dilemma.
As a woman who is solidly in the 35 & over range, I think what women in this age range want, regardless of demographics, is to not be reminded that they are 35 & over.
I do think that making fashionable clothing with modifications that are more flattering to this group will be successful. Fits that accommodate and camouflage tummies that aren’t as flat as they used to be, colors that perk up complexions that aren’t quite as dewey or smooth, etc. Market this under a label or a department that sounds hip, not stodgy, so shopping there doesn’t label you as old…you just think you happened on a brand that makes you look great, fits you body and who you are.
I have been over 35 for awhile and my clothing needs have changed almost every year. For some time I wore a strict “uniform” of black and white. Now I need high-end business casual that travels well. Who knows what I need next year. Bottom line, when I find a store that carries what I like, I let them know and stay loyal. Saves me tons of time and makes shopping fun again.
Personal pet peeve: someone needs to stop selling mini skirts and fish net stockings to women over 50!
I am a 50 year old professional woman that can not find appropriate clothes. I work in a conservative, male-dominated, informal industry. I want to wear clothes that are flattering, dynamic, crisp and authoritative. I want well-tailored clothes in quality fabrics. I want rich colors and I want cuts of clothes that make my figure look more youthful. Even though I am fit and weigh less than when I was 25, my weight has shifted and the more youthful styles are not attractive. I will pay more for these types of clothes. I shopped at Chico’s for a while, but now have a closet full of made-in-the-Orient clothes. I really do not need more of their style.
I want tropical weight wools, wool crepes, brocades, substantial satins and taffetas. I want sophistication and polish. I want a touch of glamor from the 1930s and 40s. Quit trying to force me into baby-doll clothes with sloppy finishing and cheap fabrics and unattractive colors and prints. Treat me with respect and make me more attractive!
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I would add that 9 West sportswear does a nice job of filling this need for part of this demographic. Their styles are updated and stylish without (usually) being too far out there for the more fashion oriented of the group. Their fit is a bit more forgiving and their bottoms have what I call a “mommy rise” which doesn’t come up to your armpits but still keep the necessary parts covered even when you are bending or stretching.
As others have mentioned, there isn’t a one size fits all answer, but more brands like this, perhaps at different price points and some that were a bit more traditional would be a good start.
As others have pointed out, there is no single “over 35” demographic, so any singular approach is doomed to fail, all the faster if the approach is defined as targeting actual over 35 women. It’s a case of segmentation and like any successful retail segmentation, it has to be on the basis of feel, attitude and lifestyle.
The challenge for corporate retail is simply that any segment may not be able to generate the volume to justify the investment in square footage and inventory. The good news is that this demographic has been so underserved that customers are likely prepared to pay full retails for compelling assortments that capture their imagination.
Not that we need one more woman 35+ chiming in but I will anyhow. The whole title of this post “older women” kind of gets under my skin. My mother may qualify as an “older woman” but I don’t. To that point, I have tried to shop both Chico’s and Forth & Towne (when its test stores were here in Chicago) but everything was cut for someone much broader than I am; it all looked frumpy as a result and in many cases wasn’t worth the prices tag. I think the industry’s problem with “older women” may be that we’re not easily fooled, we’re not as impulsive as we were in our 20s and we’re more secure with who we are and what we look like. Find a way to dress me well without making me feel old or making me look like my mother (no offense, mom) and I’ll be happy to do business with you. Walking into a special store screams “I’m old”–give me choices in existing venues–don’t make a lady tell her age.
It is interesting how many retailers are trying to find that magic demographic niche that “no one is catering enough” to. Every time someone says they found an under served niche, two things come to mind. First, markets are usually efficient, so if no one else has focused on this niche, there may be a reason. Second, if you see what you perceive to be a demographic cluster, is it really a homogeneous cluster? Maybe you are trying to find common themes in a very diverse group or maybe there is a better way to segment female consumers than just age? Makes me think of Rubik’s Cube–it is easier to focus on getting one or two sides right–rather than focus on all dimensions simultaneously–that would get you to real success.
The problem for many women over 35 is the endless amount of time it takes to find what is fashionable and what fits well for various end-use occasions. That is why Chico’s started so strong, they did well in meeting needs across a variety of fits and usage occasions. You could walk in and get “outfits” for dress-up, work travel and casual events. But women get bored quickly and Chico’s didn’t change the basic model of “looks” they offered, so even many loyal stockholders I know (me included) became less loyal over time.
Keeping up with boomers–such a large, non-homogeneous group of women–is a no-win situation in more than just fashion (ask any man!), but many brands could do more to make their “fit” information more visible on hangtags, etc. At the end of the day, a flattering fit is what has to be right to get many women to buy, so wherever we go, help us understand that quickly.
It is entirely appropriate to have stores or departments that focus on the needs of mature women. It’s called market segmentation and it is a basic tool of retailing. The issue is not whether to market to this group; it is how to best market to them.
Anyone who has ever marketed to kids knows you don’t position products to the age group. You position them to the group they emulate or aspire to be. For example, to market to pre-teens, you often position to teens.
The problem with marketing to mature women (or mature men) is they don’t want to be reminded of their age. Rather, they want age appropriate products that are positioned to make them feel good about themselves.
Laura is right on the money here. This is another one in the favorite series of RetailWire questions that ask something like, “Is it appropriate to treat all (fill in the blanks–gays, Hispanics, men, etc,) as though they were all alike?” The answer (once again) is, “No.” The reason is also the same. As Laura points out, people are different despite the fact that they happen to fall into a certain demographic cohort.
Another agreement with Laura’s comment. The baby boom population is so vast in scope that you need to subdivide it based on psychographics, demographics, climate differences, and so on. The customer for whom “50 is the new 30” (in her mindset, at least) is going to be attracted to a different kind of store experience, fit and trend position compared to a more classic customer with different needs. Add the element of end-use (career vs. casual vs. “weekend wear”) and it becomes even more difficult to stereotype baby boomers as “one style fits all.”
Chico’s was $21/share a year ago. Today it’s less than $13, a 38% decline. Chico’s core customers are women over 35. Yes, women over 35 often say that retailers don’t have appropriate clothes for their age group. But it’s hard to convince retail executives to cater to a segment with disappointing profits. Is this a chicken/egg situation (in other words, would Chico’s be a winner if the styles were better?) Or should retailers de-emphasize difficult businesses? Certain other market segments seem easier right now.
Having gone to my 20 year high school reunion last year, this is no surprise. We were all VERY different 38 year olds and I can’t imagine trying to hit us all with one blanket strategy!
Some women are interested in staying on the bleeding edge of trends and some are not. It’s about personality and personal style. In my opinion, retailers shouldn’t over think this. Focus on the fashion and manifest the retail store experience according to the brand. Women know who they are and what they want and will actively seek out the retail venues that connect with their preferences accordingly.
The secret here is not exclusive to the fashion business. Success in any retail business comes down to getting the right product to the right consumer.
The “store-within-a-store” concept works well when it’s targeted to the right consumer, and not blanketed across the entire chain. Some stores will succeed when the merchandise is integrated with the core merchandise, some will succeed within their own specialty department, and others should be removed completely from some stores.
Identify your target market. Test your theory in a few stores. Roll out what works. It doesn’t matter if it’s fashion or air fresheners.
That’s me, you see over there, standing up next to Laura. We are all different in our tastes and the way we spend our time and money. And our own perceptions of how we look in the styles that we like and that feel comfortable. Let’s hear it for choice. Clothes are about the wearer, not the viewer. Like women of all ages, shapes and sizes, we want the freedom to shop where we like and wear what we like without being steered towards age appropriate choices made by someone else on our behalf.
I think they may not be breaking the demographics in the right places. In my experience, there’s a group that’s 18-24 or so, with a college/casual/clubbing lifestyle; then a “young career” group that runs roughly 25-40, which needs work-appropriate but still stylish clothes and still wants young-looking styles for leisure, albeit sometimes ones with a little more coverage and less extreme styling. With people marrying and having kids later, women in their 30s often have more in common with women in their late 20s than women in their 50s.
If Mrs. Scanner read this article, I know what she would say. Well, knowing that sounds a bit presumptuous, I’ve heard it too many times. She would comment that there is very little in between to be found. Even when the fashion may be directed to those of her own age, the cuts are not.
In just one example, from last Christmas, I intended to give her jeans and sweaters. The sweaters–no challenge at all. The jeans–nearly impossible. In the end, a gift card resulted in frustration for her and the least ‘unacceptable’ jeans possible. I can’t claim to understand, but I can claim to hear. While I thought it was impossible to purchase them for her, she found it no less possible to find a pair that were not cut to show off a pierced navel or as my daughter refers to it, a ‘tramp stamp’.
Offering a somewhat classic style in ‘reasonable’ cuts my be a great start for any woman’s clothier. That being said, I’ll beg for forgiveness from Mrs. Scanner later.
My best friend, (boomer), her twenty-something daughter and I spent a glorious afternoon shopping together in the same contiguous departments and brands at Nordstrom’s this weekend. Sure, we chose different things to try on, but they were OUR choices of what we wanted to look like and buy, not some merchandise manager’s idea of what gals in our respective demographics should try on.
I am with Laura. I am over 35 years old but my tastes are elegant & trendy. We have all differences in taste, style. I would not go in a store just because they sell clothes for women 35 and older. Sometimes I prefer not to go to stores that sells within certain age group. I go for the style I want and looks great on me, or I go to store that sells various brands and styles.
I agree with many of my fellow panelists, with one exception. What older women want is youth! They do not want to be special, but instead simply want to feel, look and enjoy how they did when they were younger. This is not a question of target market differentiation, but instead recognition that youth drives our marketing savvy and aligning ourselves to this in different iterations so that older women feel younger, while younger women feel more mature. This is the secret sauce that all retailers need to recognize when they establish their presence and appeal to this market.
Any female over 35 is an “older woman”! Wow! Women in their 30s who are part of Gen Y and women who are Baby Boomers do not necessarily wear the same clothes! Women who are working full time in professional jobs don’t need the same clothes as women who work for a company requiring a uniform. Women wanting leisure clothes who live in the northern climates where it snows don’t look for the same leisure clothes as those who live in the Southeast or Southwest. Those who travel for leisure may need to buy bathing suits at any time of the year no matter where they live (not just spring and summer). Trying to classify all women over 35 as older looking for the same type of clothes is folly!
Ditto to all the above comments and two pieces of advice for retailers:
1) Stop thinking about over 35 as “older”. Not just because I’m a day or two past 35, but because the demographics matter only a little. Across retail formats, attitudes trump demographics more and more every day.
2) Remember the spending power of women over 35. Yes, we buy fewer clothes than our 20-something sisters. But that clothing is higher priced, higher margin and more predictable. We are where the money is–for those retailers and manufacturers who understand and successfully address our diverse attitudes.
I want trained sales staff who have been educated in business etiquette and understand that the use of “honey”; “that is slimming”; or “be right with you” is so incredibly offensive.
I’ve found that the retail store who does the best job of training its younger staff to be great sales individuals is Nordstroms. Positioned in the higher end divisions, they are consistently polite, they ask great questions, offer wonderful advice and dress well.
Retail is definitely reflecting the status of our global community. Cheap, smaller sizes for the junior age or expensive, nice fitting goods for those of us over 35. Also, retail continues to be a commodity versus an event. Give me the days of nice sales personnel, good products, and the offer of a cup of tea or coffee and a place to sit and browse specialty fashion magazines.
Our choice, our dilemma.
As a woman who is solidly in the 35 & over range, I think what women in this age range want, regardless of demographics, is to not be reminded that they are 35 & over.
I do think that making fashionable clothing with modifications that are more flattering to this group will be successful. Fits that accommodate and camouflage tummies that aren’t as flat as they used to be, colors that perk up complexions that aren’t quite as dewey or smooth, etc. Market this under a label or a department that sounds hip, not stodgy, so shopping there doesn’t label you as old…you just think you happened on a brand that makes you look great, fits you body and who you are.
I have been over 35 for awhile and my clothing needs have changed almost every year. For some time I wore a strict “uniform” of black and white. Now I need high-end business casual that travels well. Who knows what I need next year. Bottom line, when I find a store that carries what I like, I let them know and stay loyal. Saves me tons of time and makes shopping fun again.
Personal pet peeve: someone needs to stop selling mini skirts and fish net stockings to women over 50!
I am a 50 year old professional woman that can not find appropriate clothes. I work in a conservative, male-dominated, informal industry. I want to wear clothes that are flattering, dynamic, crisp and authoritative. I want well-tailored clothes in quality fabrics. I want rich colors and I want cuts of clothes that make my figure look more youthful. Even though I am fit and weigh less than when I was 25, my weight has shifted and the more youthful styles are not attractive. I will pay more for these types of clothes. I shopped at Chico’s for a while, but now have a closet full of made-in-the-Orient clothes. I really do not need more of their style.
I want tropical weight wools, wool crepes, brocades, substantial satins and taffetas. I want sophistication and polish. I want a touch of glamor from the 1930s and 40s. Quit trying to force me into baby-doll clothes with sloppy finishing and cheap fabrics and unattractive colors and prints. Treat me with respect and make me more attractive!